A Little More Angelic
Our son, being bored and in a mood to decorate a cake, asked that I make one. I, being of a mind to encourage the creativity but not wanting to overdo the indulgence quotient, decided to make angel food. We’re a small family (three humans), so I’ve invested in some appropriately sized cake pans. The 7-inch tube pan does half-size sponge and angel cakes beautifully, and a pair of 6-inch round pans will make a half-size layer cake. (I know, I could just bake a single layer instead of 2, but he likes the way a 2 layer cake looks, so I just make it smaller.)
So I went looking through my cookbooks for an angel food cake recipe. Each one used twice as much sugar as egg-white by volume. That meant that a full size cake would contain 12 egg whites, 1 1/4 cups of flour and 3 cups of sugar. No wonder it tastes of nothing else! Low fat it may be, but that is all that can be said for it. By comparison, my favorite yellow butter cake contains 3/4 cup of butter, 1 1/2 cups of sugar, 3 cups of flour and 4 eggs.
So just on a hunch, I pulled my grandmother’s 1957 Joy of Cooking off my shelf. And I was right. Same amount of egg white, a little more flour, and half the amount of sugar. So that is the cake I made. It didn’t bake up with the crackly macaroon-y brown crust of a modern angel cake recipe, but I consider that no particular loss. And it has an actual flavor. You can taste the lemon juice, vanilla and almond extract in it. In other words, it isn’t just sweet inflated cardboard. It’s an actual cake, and one I’ll enjoy eating.
1957 Angel Food Cake
Preheat oven to 325o F.
1 1/2 cups egg white
1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
1/2 tsp salt
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. almond extract
1 tsp. vanilla extract (or 1/2 tsp. vanilla powder)
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups cake flour, sifted before measuring
In a large, clean dry mixing bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar. Beat until they increase in volume, then gradually add lemon juice, salt and extracts. Continue to beat until they just form clear peaks. Gradually add sugar while beating at medium speed, then beat a little longer, until lifting the beater leaves peaks that fold over a little at the tip, and the whites are still very shiny and moist looking.
Carefully fold in flour, a couple of tablespoons at a time, until no visible flour remains. Pour into an ungreased 9 or 10 inch tube pan. Run a butter knife through in a spiral to break up any big bubbles and to level the batter. Bake for 50-60 minutes, or until the cake starts to pull away from the sides of the pan and is lightly browned on top.
Invert the pan over a bottle and let the cake cool completely before removing from the pan. Enjoy.
Update: I made a half-size cake. I wasn’t sure Da Boychick would like angel-cake, nor if he would like mine since what he’d had at his grandparent’s house came from the grocery. General results of experiment: I need to make another cake for him to decorate tomorrow.