At least, that’s what the old ads to get people to enlist in the Army used to say. I’d have to say the same applies to what has been tagged “combat sewing”.
A few weeks back, having realized that a trip into Indianapolis to go to Court with an old client/ friend was going to coincide with SCA Coronation, I hatched a plan to garb myself and Li in Italian Renaissance dresses so that we and her current housemate (who has his own garb already) could attend. We purchased brocade for our dresses and cotton for chemises, I took measurements (for her, but not myself, which in retrospect I should have done) and with two weeks to complete it, set about the matter.
Life intervened, as usual, and so I didn’t even really get started for a week. But that was ok, I thought, as the type of dress I had in mind is essentially a loose, floor-length vest, which in theory is easy to fit and even easier to construct. Indeed, I expected to spend more time on the chemises, especially since Li had specified that she wanted to look like a “china doll”, and that entails a certain amount of ruffle and detail. So I did the chemises first, cutting both out on a friend’s dining room table and assembling them the following day. They went together without hitch (I did cheat to the extent of using commercial bias tape for casings), and I folded them up, put them aside, and cut out my overdress without further ado or angst, cutting a lining for it at the same time.
I reckoned without the slipperiness of brocade and the changes wrought in my figure over the past nine months. Thinking it complete, I put the dress on to determine where to attach hook and eye, only to find that it was at least 2 sizes too big. So ok, I took out the side seam in the lining and attempted to take the thing in from the sides. Remember that thing about the slickness of brocade? Yeah, that. I succeeded only in making matters worse. Then I ran out of the correct color of thread. It was time to depart, and I hadn’t even begun to pack.
So I folded up the disaster, along with the lining and fabric for Li’s dress, my suit (unworn for at least a year), assorted other necessary things, and blew out of town…only to hit fog en route. Slowed me down for about 25 miles, then by some quirk of topography settled down into the fields on either side of the road, while leaving the road itself (only marginally higher ground than the fields) clear. After that I made decent time, but still got in closer to midnight than anything else. That was ever-so-not according to plan!
So next morning was court, which was its own variety of adventure, as the deputies that run the metal detector had instructions to turn everyone away because no court had any cases docketed….except, of course, the one that did. You’d think that after the 10th person came saying “I have a hearing this morning in Court 10″ that they might, oh, say – call Court 10 and ask? But they had not; my sometime law clerk and I had to sort it out ourselves, after essentially bulldozing our way into the building. Then coffee, then lunch with Li, then back to the house, where I promptly fell over and went to sleep. Something about the 5 hours I’d gotten the night before…..Long story short, it was 5:00 p.m. before the sewing commenced with a dismantling party in Li’s back yard, as she and I attacked my dress with seam rippers and sewing shears. See, I’d put it together with a serger, which meant that there was no seam allowance, and that taking it apart was rather like dismantling an Egyptian pyramid. So when I got to the point of detaching brocade from lining, I decided that a quarter inch of sheer cotton bound into a seam that was going to be enclosed anyway was no problem and just cut the lining away.
Then it was time to reconstruct. Having brought my own auxiliary sewing machine, I set it up. Li took the chemises and began adding lace to them, while I put my dress together. Then she put the binding over the raw edges (cheating again; saved me improvising facings or wrestling further with the lning monster) while I fitted hers (all that scrap lining was good for something!) and cut it out.
And got foxed by the slickness of brocade in combination with my own hurry again. Nothing like completing a dress to discover that the hem is wildly uneven. But Li tacked it up while I went to visit my folks, and we regathered for a picnic dinner at Coronation. I now have Li’s dress awaiting my attention to even the hem; evidently my description of how to accomplish it was either intimidating or lacked the clarity generally ascribed to mud. It’ll get done shortly, mostly by use of tricks learned in a department store alterations shop. And then I’ll see if I can’t figure out a better way to handle that darned brocade, because it’s just too pretty to give up on, and because if I can master silk charmeuse (essentially heavy silk satin that takes holes every time it makes the acquaintance of a pin and permanent lines if one draws on it with chalk) then by heaven I refuse to be defeated by the polyesterized remains of a dinosaur!